"I could never give up Mexican food. Nachos are usually my go-to if I'm courtside at an NBA game. I always, always get my picture taken with my mouth wide open and a tortilla chip sticking out of it!" Eva Longoria

I didn’t realize it at the time but I grew up in a very specialized culinary environment.  When you think of New Mexico you think of Mexican food, but when I left New Mexico I was always disappointed in the quality of Mexican food offered elsewhere.  A friend from college, Joe Martinez, educated me.  The upper Rio Grande valley – which includes most of New Mexico and southern Colorado – was culturally isolated from other parts of the Hispanic new world for a century or so in colonial times.  During that time they developed their cuisine.  It’s not totally different – just different enough to be jarring at times. 

Joe’s ancestry includes a very long and distinguished presence in this area. Joe recommended a book to me – which I endorse – “La Comída, The Foods, Cooking and Traditions of the Upper Rio Grande” by Frederick R. Muller.

For me the two biggest differences in Mexican cooking between – say – Santa Fe and Los Angeles are first, enchiladas and second, chile rellenos.  The first time I was served an enchilada in California and the tortillas were rolled up instead of being stacked (like pancakes) I was shocked.  It turns out that stacked enchiladas are very endemic to the upper Rio Grande area.  My dad always had a fried egg on top.  In New Mexico, chile rellenos are made using roasted and peeled green Hatch chiles.  In the rest of the world poblano chiles are used.  The difference takes some getting used to.

Other minor differences include: tomatillos are not used in New Mexico cooking.  They didn’t grow in the area and thus were not available.  Also the ground beef that is used – say, in tacos – is seasoned differently.  I don’t know exactly what the difference is, but when I’m outside New Mexico I always order chicken or pork in my tacos.

I worry about the future of NM cuisine.  The last time I was in Albuquerque, the waiter asked if I wanted my enchiladas stacked or rolled.  Not a good sign.

2014 Lester C. Welch