I didn’t realize it at the time but I grew up in a very
specialized culinary environment. When
you think of New Mexico you think of Mexican food, but when I left New Mexico I
was always disappointed in the quality of Mexican food offered elsewhere. A friend from college, Joe Martinez,
educated me. The upper Rio Grande
valley – which includes most of New Mexico and southern Colorado – was
culturally isolated from other parts of the Hispanic new world for a century or
so in colonial times. During that time
they developed their cuisine. It’s not
totally different – just different enough to be jarring at times.
Joe’s ancestry includes a very long and distinguished presence in this
area. Joe recommended a book to me – which I endorse – “La Comída, The Foods, Cooking and
Traditions of the Upper Rio Grande” by Frederick R. Muller.
For me the two biggest differences in Mexican cooking between – say –
Santa Fe and Los Angeles are first, enchiladas and second, chile rellenos. The first time I was served an enchilada in
California and the tortillas were rolled up instead of being stacked (like pancakes) I was
shocked. It turns out that stacked
enchiladas are very endemic to the upper Rio Grande area. My dad always had a fried egg on top. In New Mexico, chile rellenos are made using
roasted and peeled green Hatch chiles.
In the rest of the world poblano chiles are used. The difference takes some getting used to.
Other minor differences include: tomatillos are not used in New Mexico
cooking. They didn’t grow in the area
and thus were not available. Also the
ground beef that is used – say, in tacos – is seasoned differently. I don’t know exactly what the difference is,
but when I’m outside New Mexico I always order chicken or pork in my tacos.
I worry about the future of NM cuisine. The last time I was in Albuquerque, the waiter asked if I wanted
my enchiladas stacked or rolled. Not a
good sign.
2014 Lester C.
Welch